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Please respect my copyrights © to all the articles in this page.  They cannot be copied, duplicated or reprinted without my written permission.  Thank you.   Carolyn

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Carolyn...High up on an Appalachian mountain top, in southwest Virginia, where the deer, bears and cougars play, is the home of Wallers Bulldogs (the home of Apple Cider Vinegar first aid uses), breathing clean air, drinking pure water and still in touch with the real world by computer. I feel it is my duty to provide our Bulldogs with the best of care. To provide this special care, I constantly research new bits of information on the breed. Sharing this education, and each new thing I learn about Bulldogs, is my way of contributing to the future health and welfare of our beloved breed. As a founder and active member of the Tri State Bulldog Club, and member of the Suncoast Bulldog Friends and the Southern Bulldog Club of New Zealand, I believe in ethical breeding and responsible care for all bulldogs.

Table of Content

Click on Article Title

Begin at the End

The Rump - Hams, Gams, Hocks and the Rear End.

The Bulldog's Back and Mid-Section

Wide Shoulders, Strong Front Legs and Good Bone

The Bulldog's Beautiful Face and Head

Problems You May Encounter in a Litter of Bulldog Puppies

A Survey On Breeding, and Pups Produced In 1997


Begin at the End

Puptails.jpg (42668 bytes)Since the 'end' or the 'tail' can make such a tremendous difference in a happy, or an unhappy, Bulldog, always begin your evaluation process, when considering adopting a Bulldog, with a good examination of the tail. You will find straight spiked tails, curled tails, screwed in tails, no tail to speak of, gay tails, docked tails and sometimes an inverted tail. The straight spiked tail that is set correctly on the hind end, and not too high on the back, not too long, and not too short, is the preferred tail. Long enough to hang straight down and cover the anal opening. Curledtail.jpg (57056 bytes)

Curled tails have a curve or two that throws them out and away from covering the anal opening. If these wag and are easily moved by the dog, then usually, other than looking a little strange, you will not encounter problems with them. Screw tails are the most likely to present future problems. Problems range from keeping clean and irritation free, to becoming so tightly screwed that amputation becomes necessary.

No tail to speak of is one that is not there or not long enough to cover the anal opening. Since nature intended for the canine species to have a tail, and usually a long one, this lack of a tail could also mean future problems 

Gaytail.jpg (26218 bytes)The gay tail is one that is either going up and over the back, or a screwed tail that seems to be on upside down. Lots of puppies will hold their very correct straight spiked tails straight out when they are happy and excited so do not think this means they have a 'gay tail'. 'Up' is the key word to a gay tail and these will start 'up' from the base. 

Docked tails are another matter. Docking of Bulldog tails should never be done and this eliminates their eligibility from being shown no matter how beautiful the dog is. Some novice owners and breeders actually think you are supposed to dock the tails.  

The inverted tail is a sure sign of trouble. A tail that is actually inverted back into the body will eventually present nerve damage, possibly incontinence, and pure misery for the Bulldog. Too tightly screwed tails, and a broken tail can become inverted. Please click here to read Winnie's Tail Tale. Amputation is the preferred way to correct the problem. 

How can a puppy break its tail? The dam could step on the pup, lay on the pup, lick the pup's rear end too aggressively, or the pup could fall on its rear end while learning to climb steps, or the tail could be broken during rough house playing with its siblings. 

Pups can wag 'good' tails. Tails that do not move when a puppy is happy is a sign of problems. These problems can be an inverted tail, nerve damage, spinal problems and even a broken tail.  

When is amputation necessary? The answer to this is simply when the tail problems are not easily corrected. Pain, incontinence, re-occurring infections, trouble with walking and/or sitting, and 'grouchiness' which is not normal behavior for a Bulldog, are all signs of tail problems that hopefully can be corrected with the amputation of the tail.

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The Rump - Hams, Gams, Hocks and the Rear End.

The Bulldog's rump should be slightly, about an inch or so, higher than the shoulders. It should be well rounded, light-weight but strong. Females tend to have a slightly wider and heavier rear end. When choosing a puppy, it is near impossible to tell how this rump will look a year from now because the pup under two months is not developed proportionately and its legs are used for balance and walking and may appear to be too long or straight.. This is a time to study the parents of the pup.

The hind end may be small and not so wide, but it should never be so small as to look out of proportion with the rest of the body. The legs should be sturdy and bones straight but when the adult stands, the legs should be slightly bent at the patella’s (knees), not so straight as to hold the hind end straight up in the air. The inner two front toes should point straight toward the front of the body, never inwards (pigeon toed), nor excessively outwards (sloth footed). 

There should be good 'tuck up' which means that from the last rib the body should then tuck up to the rear end. A pot-bellied look is very undesirable and could suggest problems with the digestive system, or other organs. The tail should be set on the back end of the rump just above the anal opening, never on top of the back, or rump. The anal opening should be clean, uniformly shaped and not bulging.  

The feet and toes should be clean and not cracked or red and swollen. The toenails should be trimmed and short and not 'clacking' on the floor when the dog walks. The paw pads may appear rough (for traction) but look for cracks and soreness. 

Walking should be easy and limp free. Brisk walking should be a smooth gait, the back legs swaying in rhythm and the body 'rolling' from side to side. In a brisk walk, the Bulldog's hind legs should never be thrown outwards, nor go inwards, one from the other, nor should the dog 'hop' on its hind legs. 

All puppies should be taught by their breeder to climb up steps and walk down steps. Some pups, and adult Bulldogs, will choose to hop up, or down, steps. This does not indicate any problems necessarily. It may just mean they are in a hurry. Try to slow the dog down and have him slowly go and down the steps, climbing the steps with each leg. He should be able to accomplish this with no apparent pain or problems in the back legs. 

Check the hair (coat) on the rump very closely. Feel the skin under the coat for any signs of tiny bumps or scabs. These could indicate a food allergy. Also check the coat carefully around the base of the tail. This is where fleas like to hide. Any little dried white rice looking things sticking to the hair around the anal opening indicates a tapeworm.

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The Bulldog's Back and Mid-Section

After you have carefully observed the tail end and hind legs of the Bulldog you are considering, move on to the back. There should be gentle slope from the top of the shoulders to just behind the front legs then this slope should start back up and make a roll toward the rump and over the rump. Never do you want a straight back without this dip behind the shoulders and never do you want a 'hump' in the back. The entire appearance should be uniform and smooth. See picture below.

Lou.jpg (12790 bytes)The hair on the back and sides should be thick and smooth with no signs of irritation to the skin underneath. It will be thicker around the neck area. A healthy Bulldog's coat will have a nice gloss to it. The coloring should be bright with well-defined markings.

The rib cage should be broad and deep. The major organs of the body are housed in this rib cage. You should be able to feel the ribs easily, but you should not be able to see the outlines of the ribs. There should be enough 'meat' on them so the Bulldog does not look too thin or skinny. The underside of the rib cage should be smooth and no ribs 'jutting out'. A 'too large' rib cage, giving the Bulldog an unusual look, could mean the dog is infested with heart worms. Feel just below the rib cage, under the sternum, for any protrusions or obviously enlarged internal organs.

The stomach area should be clean with no signs of irritation or protrusions. Any lumps or bumps protruding through the skin in the tummy area are signs of hernias. The 'belly button' should be just a small flat scar less than the diameter of a dime. Young puppies will sometimes have a pot bellied look just after they have eaten, but this tight swollen look should last only about an hour. If a pup's tummy is really round and extended, it may be infested with roundworms. In an older pup or adult dog, an extended stomach/intestines is a sign something may be wrong internally. Malfunctions of the digestive system, parasites, liver problems, or tumors can cause an extended belly.

For a female you may desire to breed someday, you will need to check the teats. Inverted nipples are common in this breed and they can cause you problems when the dam has to nurse her pups. Also, the inverted nipples will need special cleaning and care to prevent yeast growth and infections. When lactating, the breast will fill with milk but puppies have a difficult time nursing the inverted nipples which can lead to the milk caking in the breast and causing much pain and discomfort for the dam. This is called mastitis of the breast.

With any female you should take a look at the vulva to see that it is normal in appearance and is clean. Both sides of the vulva should be exposed. A vulva with the 'lips' of either one side or both sides being inverted, can cause frequent urinary tract infections until surgically corrected.

And remember: there is no way any breeder could possibly guarantee the fertility of any female being considered for purchase, even if she has already produced a litter.

A male pup's or dog's penis should be clean with no signs of infection. It is not unusual for an adult male Bulldog to have a slight white or yellowish discharge from time to time, but a foul smell around the penis could mean dirt trapped under the foreskin which will lead to an infection. This is very seldom found in the younger pup, but do check the adult or older pup.

Check the testicles. A pup or adult dog should have both testicles in place by six months of age. With a small puppy the testicles do not always descend prior to placement in their new homes but you should be able to feel a little pea-sized nodule on each side of the groin. And these should move into the sacs soon. Make sure you have a written contract guaranteeing against any possible future problems where the testicles do not descend.

The only way to guarantee the fertility of any male being considered is 1: he has already been proven, or 2: a veterinarian has performed the required test for both sperm count and sperm mobility.

The sexual organs of both females and males should be protected from injury

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Wide Shoulders, Strong Front Legs and Good Bone

Wide shoulders. That is what you want. A Bulldog is supposed to have wide shoulders and sturdy, short and thick front legs. This will come naturally with a nice wide chest and good thick bones. Lash.jpg (3001 bytes)

So how can you tell if a puppy is going to have wide shoulders and good bone? Look at him carefully. Do his front legs seem nice and sturdy with almost too much skin wrinkled around them? Maybe even wrinkles overlapping his ankles? Feel his chest. The chest should feel almost flat or only slightly rounded and it should be wide. A man's hand should fit flat between the two front legs on the chest.
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And look at the neck. A Bulldog should have a thick and short neck. The spread behind the neck and between the shoulders should be wide. One good way to check this is to stand over the puppy while it is eating and take a look at it. You should see a definitely wider front end than rear end.

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The Bulldog's Beautiful Face and Head

The 'brick' look, the 'flat' forehead, the round face, the 'rocking-chair' jaw bone, and the lists goes on and on. But all you need to worry about is the size of the head, the teeth alignment, the color and set of the eyes, the nose and the ears. The rest will come together naturally if these five features are correct. And the 'rest' are just special features that will make your own Bulldog unique and all the more lovable. The head should be large. Male Bulldogs tend to have larger heads than the females so you must always keep gender in perspective. The age of the Bulldog will also need to be taken into consideration. Newborn pups always seem to have large heads, just like with human babies. At six or eight weeks, you should be able to see the marked differences in head sizes among litter-mates.Head.jpg (118940 bytes) Between four and nine months you may see what appears to be a small head on a large body because the body grows faster during these months. (some start earlier and some end later) As the Bulldog reaches full maturity you will see the fuller head, and the true head shape. Just go for the larger headed pup, don't worry too much about the older pup if you have seen the sire and dam and know they are 'nice headed', and for the older adult you can see what you will be getting.

Teeth alignment is one thing so many people tend to overlook in pups. A severe under-bite, or over-bite, is very undesirable and will lead to future problems such as the Bulldog not being able to chew and eat properly. You want to see six little teeth between the lower two canine teeth and all set in a neat straight row. And the lower row of teeth should set just in front of the upper teeth when the mouth is closed. If these six little teeth are curved or rounded outwards toward the front of the mouth, you could end up with an under-bite.

The color of the eyes should be dark brown or black. In very young pups, the cornea remains bluish color for quite a while and this will turn whiter as the Bulldog ages but the iris will be its true color by the age of six weeks. The eyes should be clear with no excessive tearing, and no signs of entropion, the most common congenital defect of the Bulldog's eye. Entropion is the condition where the eyelids turn into the eye and the lashes, or lid itself, constantly irritates the eye. The only way to correct entropion is by surgery and then the Bulldog cannot be shown, and should not be bred. This condition can be found in the upper and lower eyelids. entropion is another condition you want to avoid. This is where the eyelids roll outwards from the eye and leave the eye exposed to irritation. Bulldogs seldom suffer from entropion but it can happen.

The eyes should be deep-set and wide apart, just above the nose. Here again, in young puppies the head and face are not mature and this can be misleading as to the set of the eyes.

The nose should be black. No other color will do. Young pups may not have completely black noses by the ages of six or eight weeks, but the pigmentation should be well on its way of blackening the nose. Check the nostrils to be sure they are nice and open, and not collapsed to slits. These collapsed nares will make breathing difficult for your Bulldog during activity and as he ages.

Ears - ideally you want to see puppies with their ears 'naturally' rosed and not needing to be glued. Some pups ears will naturally fold and 'rose' by six or eight weeks, and some may take months. An ear, or both ears, standing straight up is undesirable, as well as longer, floppy ears. If you are looking at a puppy whose ears have not rosed yet, ask the breeder whether the sire's or dam's ears were glued. Some breeders pay close attention to breeding in the correct ears, and some do not since they rely on gluing. It does not seem to matter because either way, the ears are acceptable in the show rings.

Remember, there is no Bulldog face that you cannot love. Just try to choose the best one for you before you become totally 'in-love' with it.

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Problems You May Encounter in a Litter of Bulldog Puppies

  1. Anasarca - also called the 'walrus puppy' or the 'water puppy'. This condition and its causes are not entirely understood. Some females tend to produce these unfortunate babies and many articles have been written on the condition and thoughts go from the female having a thyroid condition, or retaining water from too much salt in her diet on to all sorts of other reasons. One stud I know was the sire of five and all were water puppies, and also the sire of one water puppy in a subsequent litter of four pups.A1.jpg (11687 bytes) Someone called me long distance concerned about the five water pups her female produced last year, then this year, using the same stud and dam, another litter of five water pups resulted. So much thought and blame has been put to the females when, perhaps, the stud dog is the one to be considered as relaying this condition onto his pups.  And the fault may result from the combination of a certain stud and the female he is coupled with.  The fact is, no one seems to be able to come up with the answer as to why this condition happens. The pups are born weighing up to three pounds and they are so bloated with water that they can hardly move their legs or head. This water retention is both internally and under the skin. Most are born live and then struggle for life until the day they finally die.

  2. Hydrocephalus - also called the 'water head' and 'water on the brain'. This condition is not usually noticed until the pup is around twenty-one days old. At this age you will notice that this pup is smaller in size than the other pups in the litter and its head has not taken on the Bulldog shape like the other pups. The skull will be domed, or rounded, and will appear large for the body and the eyes may appear to bulge out from their sockets. Another characteristic is a constantly runny nose, a clear watery discharge. Toy and brachycephalic breeds are the most often afflicted and this condition is being seen more often in these two breeds. As the pup ages you will find A2.jpg (16296 bytes)it has more and more difficulty walking and getting around, and it may appear retarded. The puppy pictured here was four months old and only five pounds when this picture was taken. She had been taken to the local Veterinary College at the age of two months and euthanasia was suggested. By this time we were so attached to the tiny little girl that we could not bear this idea. Eventually her front legs became so weak they could not support her weight and big head. When she was five months old and upon awaking one morning I discovered her eyes had bulged out their sockets. She had to be put down. Note: this little girl was not retarded mentally. She knew her commands, and her 'snuggle time' to the minute. We had just prolonged her suffering and our agony by keeping her alive so long.

  3. Failure to Thrive - The little female pup pictured here had just been brought into the veterinary clinic for her first set of vaccines. She was six weeks old. Her littermatesA3.jpg (17088 bytes) were bouncy and healthy and much larger. She could walk and get around but tired very easily. Her breeder allowed me to take this photograph of her still wrapped in her towel since she appeared cold. As you can see, her tongue, nose and inner ears were nice and pink. She had no problems with oxygen intake but she was just so weak. Her heart sounded fine. There were no obvious clues as to what her problem could be. She had simply failed to thrive. She ate well and her bodily functions appeared fine. She endured her examination, received her vaccines, and then died on her way back home.

  4. Weak Front Leg Ankles - (wrists) The little fellow pictured here was about four weeks old when this picture was taken. As you can see, his left front leg ankle is A4.jpg (11267 bytes)bowed in the picture. He appeared to be 'double jointed' in this ankle. When he righted himself to walk, he did fine and the leg stayed straight, but the bones would slip back and forth when he sat up supporting his chest. It is believed this was caused by having to support the weight of his body and head on the weaker joint. By the time he was eight weeks old, he was no longer having the problem, and now at three years old, he is very hearty and strong.

  5. The "Runt" - born much smaller than the rest of the littermates but is healthy andA5.jpg (10227 bytes)vigorous. The most common problem you have with a 'runt' is making sure it gets enough to eat and not being pushed aside by the larger pups. Most are healthy and strong; just the smallest in the litter. The pup pictured here at two weeks, is now two years old and a real beauty. Her black coloring at birth, turned to a beautiful rich red.

  6. Blue Eye - The little one pictured here was indeed the prettiest and best quality of the entire litter. When she began opening her eyes at two weeks, a tiny speck of blue was noticed in her right eye. This blue speck continued to spread to the entire iris of A6.jpg (7926 bytes)that eye. She was taken to an eye specialist at the age of eight weeks and deemed to be in perfect health and physical condition and the eye was healthy and she could see fine out of it. This specialist informed the breeder that the blue eye most often showed up in dark coated animals that had the white coloring between the eyes. And that this pup should not, nor its littermates, be used for breeding since fifty percent of the pups in the litter most likely carried this blue eye gene.

  7. Slow closing Font - At the age of eight weeks this pup still had an open font. When it did start closing, calcium deposits formed over the frontal opening resultingA7.jpg (13826 bytes)in surgery being needed to remove this flat, half-dollar sized growth. This picture was taken when the pup was around four months old and if you look hard, just above the little scar above her nose, you can see the beginning of this growth - in the center of her forehead just above the eyes. The surgery to remove this was not done until she was a year old. She has done fine since the surgery.


A Survey On Breeding, and Pups Produced In 1997

This survey was conducted via email through the internet and by telephone. Breeders responding to the information requested were from all parts of the U.S.A. and I extend my thanks to each and every one of you for this information. I feel this data will give all breeders more insight to this monumental task of breeding Bulldogs, producing puppies and then keeping them alive after they are born. Seventy-nine of the three hundred and nineteen puppies born did not survive to the age of eight weeks. Causes of these losses varied from genetic defects to accidental. Of particular interest were these puppies born live and healthy, then accidentally killed after birth. Thirty five percent of the deaths were pups that were accidentally killed. Some of the deaths were caused by the dams stepping, or laying, on their pups, some were caused by the veterinarian or attendants during the c-section and one pup died after being dropped to the floor. Ten pups were killed by their confused dams after being left alone with her too soon after their births.

We are all constantly striving to produce only sound and healthy pups, and we worry about conditions such as Anasarca, and we dread discovering a pup with a cleft palate and we mourn the loss of a pup that simply fails to thrive. Now I feel we need to focus more on proper care of the healthy pups we do produce and prevent these accidental deaths.

The survey data:

Number of females bred: 106

Number of litters produced: 64

Total number of pups produced, including those that died at birth: 319

Number of pups that survived to eight weeks of age: 240

Number of pups that died after eight weeks of age, and before one year: 0

In the deaths, number of pups that suffered Anasarca: 17

Number of pups that died because of cleft palates: 5

Number of pups that were accidentally killed after birth: 27

Number of pups that died as a result of first set of vaccines: 0

Number of dams that died during the deliveries of the pups: 3

Number of dams that died during a pregnancy from complications: 2

Number of dams bred unsuccessfully: 37


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