The Whelping Box

Please be patient, this page takes awhile to load. But the vast information available here to the serious first time breeder (or even experienced one still wishing to continue learning) is worth the wait. Go ahead and bookmark this page and return often, as new information is regularly added. If you have questions, please feel free to contact our team.

CARING FOR YOUR FEMALE AFTER BREEDING and DURING PREGNANCY

NO BATHS - soaps and shampoos can be absorbed through the skin, especially flea control concoctions. Clean her with clear, warm water only, taking towels and giving her a good rubdown.

NO MEDICATIONS WHATSOEVER - especially antibiotics. Do not administer any prescribed drugs, nor over the counter medications such as aspirin or Benadryl. And please do not use any worm control agents, not even the heart worm preparations. (This should be the overall rule, but, of course, should sickness strike or there is a need for something, then let a qualified veterinarian make that determination)

QUIET PLEASE - Too much physical exertion can result in miscarriage. She will need moderate exercise such as a nice walk each day but no running and rough play. Let her become lazy.

HEALTHY MOMS BUILD HEALTHY BABES - Feed a good, high protein, quality dog food always. Give her the normal ration of food the first six weeks, then let her eat all she wants the last three weeks. She will require more food, at more times during the day. Her tummy will be crowded by the babies, and she will not be able to eat as much at each feeding therefore will require more often feedings. Some owners feed a high quality puppy food to the expectant mom the last three weeks, and some supplement with calcium tablets. This is up to you.

DO NOT TRY TO FEEL FOR THE PUPPIES - an inexperienced probe for pups can result in serious injury to the babies. You will see and feel them soon enough.

IS SHE, OR ISN’T SHE EXPECTING? - Sometimes you can tell by the seventh week and sometimes you can’t tell even on the due date. Bulldogs carry their babes high in the chest cavity. No veterinarian can do a digital/vaginal examination and confirm the pregnancy. If there is a question as to the pregnancy, an experienced vet will do an X-ray only the last week of the gestation period. Ultra-sounds are not always reliable. X-rays of the female have to be done late enough to allow time for the pups' bones to calcify. X-rays done earlier than the 56th day of the pregnancy can do serious injury to the babes. All vets know this, but some will do weird things to your female just for the money.

CHOOSE YOUR VETERINARIAN WISELY - This cannot be expressed enough. Just because a veterinarian says he/she can do a C-section, in no ways means they can do a C-section on a bulldog. Always ask for ‘bulldog’ proof and check the reference out. It is strongly recommended that you choose a known ‘bulldog’ vet. Ask owners of bulldogs. Check references. Choose a vet who has several other bulldog patients. Be safe, not sorry.

INFORM YOUR VET AS TO THE DUE DATE AND GO FOR THE C-SECTION - We always recommend a Caesarian delivery. The risk of loss is so high when you attempt a natural delivery. Bulldogs tend to ignore pain, and get lazy during delivering. Some just fall asleep half way through the ordeal and the pups are not pushed out.

PROBLEMS WITH THE PREGNANCY - Your female may or may not experience ‘morning sickness’ the first two or three weeks after being bred. During this time she may also not eat very much. By the fourth week she should be eating quite well and appearing to feel fine. Should she appear to be sick or having problems, read the advice below on the particular problem.

1: Lethargy: Many pregnant females will become listless and quiet the last couple of weeks of the pregnancy. As long as she is eating and drinking and getting minimal exercise, she should be fine. Keep a check on her internal body temperature (use a digital rectal thermometer and do regular readings*) As long as there is no rise in temperature to indicate a fever, and there is no heavy discharge from her vagina, then she is okay being so quiet.

2: Vomiting: Vomiting is never 'okay' until you can determine the cause. And be sure it is real vomiting up of food and stomach contents, rather than just the spitting up of phlegm from throat congestion. An upset stomach is the usual cause of vomiting, and this can be controlled by diet. Try to determine why she may have an upset stomach. A special treat, or a too rich food, can cause a little upset. And this type of upset may not show up for six to twelve hours after eating. Check her temperature (rectally) and if you notice a slight rise in temperature, but no more vomiting, then check her temperature again in an hour or so. Vomiting can cause a temporary rise in temperature but it should go back down to normal very soon. And follow this advice - vomiting one time is cause for checking temp, and avoiding any food other than her normal diet. Vomiting two times is cause for a little more concern, the checking of temp, and no food or treats for eight hours. Vomiting a third time, regardless of temp or diet, is reason to call your veterinarian. And this count on vomiting means per episode - with each episode being at least an hour apart in time, but within a twenty-four hour period of time.

Projectile vomiting is much more serious. Projectile vomiting is when the dog actually vomits so hard that the matter coming up is sprayed a distance from her mouth, and usually occurs more than once in quick succession. Projectile vomiting is usually the result of something in the stomach blocking a digestion duct. Call your vet immediately.

3: Vaginal Discharge: This is the subject you must study carefully. Most vaginal discharges will not be noticed until the fifth week and later, unless the female had an infection to begin with, such as a urinary tract infection. This is why it is always important to have the female examined by a veterinarian prior to breeding. Note too, that vaginal discharges are usually a thick or stringy substance, not just thin and watery. Thin and watery discharges may be from the urinary tract. Both are reasons for concern, but the list below is referring to vaginal discharges.

A small amount of an odorless, clear, mucous, stringy type discharge is quite normal. This is just normal body substance being 'crowded' out of the body by pressure on the body parts from the growing uterus. Just wipe it off her and do not be concerned.

Slightly pinkish tinged discharge is common but not desired. Try to notice if this is showing up just after she has urinated. Frequent urination could be causing a little irritation to the urinary tract resulting in slight bleeding. Check the temperature. And check to see if you can determine if it is coming from the urinary tract, or the vagina. This may not be easy to determine. One occurrence, or one day of happening, just means that you should keep a close eye on her and then if you see it happening more often, or heavier in amount, you should consult your veterinarian.

Yellowish discharge is cause for a little more concern. The yellowish color could represent a yeast problem somewhere, or it could indicate a problem getting ready to occur. Do a temperature check, then notify your vet of the discharge and the temperature reading.

Greenish colored, or muddy looking, or old blood looking, and usually a foul smelling discharge is cause for real concern. This kind of discharge tells you there is a pup on the way (if not out already). This is the 'tricky' one to handle. Most veterinarians will want you to bring the female into the clinic right away. Wait a while. If this sort of discharge happens somewhere between the fifth and ninth week of the gestation period, it is an abortion of one or more of the fetuses. Many times this is nature's way of solving an over crowded uterus problem. If the female is carrying too many pups and more room is needed to ensure some of them can survive until birth, nature will cast off what the female's body cannot safely manage for the rest of the gestation period. Even 'Mother Nature' can be fooled on occasion, and one or two fetuses may abort on more than one occasion (same as with humans). If you notice this type of discharge, notify your veterinarian, but my advice is to NOT disturb the female any more than is absolutely necessary. Do not risk the loss of ALL the pups by getting the female upset and taking her anywhere. Keep her as calm and quiet as possible, and wait a while. Check her temperature and as long as it remains normal, then do not be overly concerned. A rise in temperature to 'fever' level (103 or above) means she is in trouble internally and this is when you must get her professional help. A drop in temperature to 100 degrees or lower means she may be aborting another one. This is a hard practice for veterinarians, from the worst to the best, because it is their job to save the female and most will want her in their clinic, so they can go 'by the books'. Some will suggest a 'cleaning out' of the uterus, some will suggest a hysterectomy, and almost all will want to do x-rays and other tests, and they almost all will want to treat the female with antibiotics. My advice is NO, not quite yet anyway. No until it is determined that all the fetuses are lost, or will be lost, and it is the only thing that will save the female's life. Once the female appears back to normal, but still pregnant, and she has drunk some water, perhaps eaten a little, and urinates and maybe has a bowel movement, she will probably just want a good nap.

If this greenish discharge appears any time during the ninth week, then notify your veterinarian immediately and prepare for the c-section. This means the pups are breaking away from the uterus and on their way out to be born. No need to check her temperature at this point because she is going to have the pups very soon with or without human help.

4: Diarrhea: As annoying as this condition is, it does happen to some of the pregnant females. Usually diarrhea occurs after eating something too rich for the stomach to digest properly. Stress and illness both can be causes too. It must be controlled as soon as possible to prevent dehydration of the body. Control first, then determine the cause. For control it is safe to give a pregnant female a human remedy such as Kaopectate. When using Kaopectate (plain, liquid form), I give mine approximately 20 millimeters after each bout of the diarrhea. Usually one dose will be enough, but if you have gotten to more than three doses in a twenty four hour period of time, then consult your veterinarian. Diarrhea, or very loose stools, on the due date indicates simply that the body is cleaning itself out and preparing for the birth. Call your vet.

5: Uncontrolled Head Shakes: This will be noticed by an uncontrollable shaking of the head, much like a palsy problem. No one seems to know why some females will have this prior to, or right after, whelping, but it must be due to some sort of chemical imbalance, or low blood sugar, or to stress. I have found that a sugar cube, or a cookie, or a slice of sandwich cheese will take care of the problem.

6: Inverted Nipples: The time to tend to inverted nipples is 'prior' to the birth of the pups. Have them ready for nursing before the pups get to them. The pups are going to try to nurse an inverted nipple regardless of its condition. Get a bowl of clean, warm water and a soft cloth or gauze pad, then massage the inverted nipple out, and gently hold it out for a few minutes. You most likely will find a paste type buildup in under the nipple and this should be gently washed clean. By cleaning the nipple prior to the birth of the pups, the female will not resent you messing with it after it is tender due to nursing attempts. Do not apply any creams or other agents, just clean it at least two or three times a day after the seventh week of the pregnancy.

7: The Nipple Area: No need to do much here except keep clean. Do check for any long hairs around the nipples, and gently clip these away with rounded point scissors. Some vets will shave the nipple area when prepping for the c-section, some will not. Easy enough for you to clip longer hairs while you are petting her. The body will naturally shed most of the hairs away from the nipples anyway.

8: Ears: Clean and treat the female's ears prior to the pups being born. Newborn pups have closed ears until around their fourteenth day of life, then their ears open and they are very tender. You would never want a newborn puppy to contact ear mites from its mom, nor any other ear problem from her. Even if the mom was trouble free when she was bred, there is always the possibility that she has picked up something during her pregnancy.

9: Toenails: Do not risk a puppy being 'stabbed' by a long toenail on its mom. If you cannot keep the nails trimmed blunt and short during the pregnancy, the vet can take care of this quickly during the c-section procedure. Be sure to remind the vet that this will need to be done.

10: Mental Health: A pregnant Bulldog is much the same as a pregnant human. She will have her good days, and she will have her bad ones. Just keeping her as stress free as possible will work best. A safe and secure place for her to 'nest' and feel comfortable is a must. It is best to keep all other pets away from her, and out of sight, after the seventh week begins. Nature will help her abort the pups if she feels threatened in any way, depending on the personality of your female. Introduce all your 'whelping equipment' (baby scales, piles of blankets and towels, stuffed animals, etc.) to her prior to her due date, letting her sniff and investigate. This is so she does not get home after the c-section and with her precious babes, and then see you approaching the whelping box with something as monstrous looking as a set of baby scales.

*** Normal bulldog temperature should read between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees. Below 100 readings could indicate a bowel obstruction such as the need to eliminate a stool (or if pregnant, the possibility of pups being in the birth canal in preparation for birth). A temperature of 103 and higher, indicates an illness due to either an infection, or stress. Use a digital rectal thermometer, and double check the reading by taking the temp a second, and even a third time, if the reading appears abnormal - high or low, or if you feel the first normal reading may not be quite right. Always apply just a dab of vaseline to the tip of the thermometer for ease in inserting it. And be sure you wipe it clean afterwards.

PREPARE FOR THE BIRTH OF YOUR BULLDOG PUPPIES AT LEAST TEN DAYS BEFORE THEIR DUE DATE

1. WHELPING BOX - Let your female get used to sleeping in the whelping box as soon as possible. Put down a pad of some sort - I take a twin size ‘egg crate’ mattress pad, cut it in half, and use this. Then I place a blanket on top of the pad, then a large size heating pad, then an all cotton flannel sheet.

2. EXTRA BLANKETS AND SHEETS - The bedding in the whelping box will need to be changed at least once or twice a day. Puppies, even newborns, have little sharp nails that can snag in a towel or blanket, so I use all cotton flannel sheets to cover the blankets.

3. HEATING PADS - At least two of the larger sized ones. One in the whelping box, and one in the ‘puppy crate’. Heating pads are always kept on LOW temperature setting. Never use a higher heat setting. Pups need the heat to keep their lower intestines working, plus to stay warm, but too much heat can lead to their deaths.

4. SMALL PUPPY SIZE CRATE - To allow the pups a safe place to sleep while mom is resting for an hour or two between feedings. In this crate place a heating pad set on LOW temp setting and cover with a receiving blanket or safe cloth. The mom will appreciate this as much as you will.

5. VAPORIZER - We have found that a vaporizer in the room with the pups makes breathing much easier for them. They have teensy little nostrils (nares) and need all the help they can get.

6. BABY BOTTLES - Have at least two of the four ounce size with measurements in CC. A one pound puppy will require 60 CC of milk in each 24-hour period should it become necessary for you to feed (when mom cannot).

7. BOTTLE NIPPLES - I have found the newborn size (0 to 3 months) or the ‘preemie’ baby size to work best the first day or so, then as the pup grows, go to the regular size nipple. Latex nipples are found to be more readily accepted than the other kinds.

8. FORMULA - There are several types available, even home concocted formulas, but the easiest, and a proven safe one, is Esbilac liquid. You can order a case of this from your wholesale pet supplies catalog. It is always a good idea to have at least a few cans on hand just in case of an emergency. It will not be wasted since you can use it when you start weaning the pups.

9. BABY SCALES - Keep a written record, from birth through six weeks, of the pups weight and progress. You can expect the puppy to lose an ounce or two during the first twenty four hours, but after that it should gain steadily. Not gaining, or losing, is a sign of trouble.

10. NASAL ASPIRATOR - To remove nasal congestion from nursing too fast, or whatever. Purchase the small bulb type made for a baby.

11. FINGERNAIL CLIPPERS - The small ones made for human babies work best in the beginning. You will notice the pups' little nails growing out into a curved, hook like, way. Clip only these hooks to prevent nails being snagged on a blanket, etc. A snagged nail can lead to a blood infection.

12. COTTON BALLS, TISSUES, AND PAPER TOWELS - It will be necessary for you to clean mom daily since she will have a discharge for a few weeks, plus you will need to clean the pups continuously. If mom refuses to do ‘diaper changing (licking)’, you will need to see that each puppy empties its bladder and bowels regularly. I simulate the licking process by dipping a cotton ball into warm water and gently massaging the puppy’s lower tummy area and the hind end to make it urinate and defecate. A lot of bulldog moms will have no part of this job.

13. EARSCOPE - This little lighted, small tipped, and magnifying instrument will be used time and time again. It will make it much easier to peer into a tiny pup's mouth to check palate, or into their ears later, or into any other hard to see place.

14. EMERGENCY & ROUTINE SUPPLIES NEEDED - It is best to be prepared for any and all emergencies. When the need arises, it may be too late to go shopping. These are inexpensive, and life saving:

a. Amoxy-drops: antibiotic made for puppies that you need to get from your veterinarian prior to, or on the day of delivery.

b. Nemex 2: a couple bottles to deworm the puppies at three weeks and you must deworm mom too. Get from your vet, or order from pet catalog.

c. Milk of Magnesia: just incase the pups get diarrhea. Get liquid, plain flavor.

d. Pediatric STAT: a high calorie nutrient supplement to feed a weak puppy. It has saved a couple of ours from dying. Get from vet, or pet supply catalog.

e. Kaopectate: keep on hand for the mom if she gets diarrhea, which is a common occurrence after they have had a litter. Unflavored liquid or tablets.

f. Simethecon Drops: the ‘gas’ drops for colicky babes, or pups having tummies distended from too much gas.

g. Vaseline (Petroleum Jelly): to put on puppy if it develops irritated behind.

Just in case you do not make it to the vet in time for the delivery, and have deliver pups yourself, you will need clean pair of scissors, some plain white kite twine, quite a few clean, white cloths (baby diapers work best).

You will need to prepare a box or basket to bring your newborns home after the delivery. A picnic basket works nice for this because it has the handle to carry on top. Any fair size box will do. The pups will need to be kept warm continuously. I use the ‘lava packs’ that you put into a microwave to heat, and these hold heat well for about three hours. Two liter soda bottles work good too. Fill the bottles with hot water and wrap in a towel. This can be done at the vet’s office. Baby receiving blankets for cushioning work best in the box since they can be folded to the appropriate size to fit.

LABOR ! ? ! ? IS IT TIME?

How do I know when to go for the C-section?

One week prior to the due date, start checking your female’s temperature. A digital, rectal thermometer should be used. Be sure it has a fresh battery and is reading correctly. Keep a written record of each temperature check, noting the date and time of day. The first couple of days, you will need to check her temp twice a day - in the morning, after her bowel movement, and in the evening after her bowel movement.

A healthy dog’s temperature should read between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees. A dog with full bowels will register a lower temperature until the bowels are emptied. A dog with a temperature of above 102.5 is displaying signs of an infection. Call your veterinarian immediately.

A female bulldog will show signs of ‘getting her milk’ about five days before her delivery date. She may also have a white mucous discharge. This is normal, and a sign of the pressure the unborn pups are now putting upon her lower body organs. If you see a greenish (sometimes blood tinged) discharge, call your veterinarian immediately.

Three days before her first due date, start checking her temperature four times a day. Two days before check it five or six times during the day, and one day before, check it every couple of hours. When you notice the temperature falling lower, it is coming closer to time to go to the vet for the c-section. Once the temperature drops to 99.5 degrees, or lower, she is in impending labor. CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY - night or day, you cannot wait. Owners who try to wait until morning, or wait until Monday (if on a weekend the temp falls) are just asking for trouble. The veterinarian is going to be much nicer to you at 7 p.m. in the evening, than he will be at 3 a.m. in the morning.

Temp below 99.5, call the vet, turn the heating pad on, get the baby basket ready, put expectant mom in the car, and go for it. Take towels, blankets, scissors, kite string, and second person to help, just in case puppies start coming while you are on your way to the vet.

A few more "tips"

Make sure your vet plans to use the quick recovery gas anesthetic called Isoflouril. This makes mom’s recovery much quicker, and does not seem to deter the babies.

Warn your vet prior to the C-section that in no way is he/she allowed to give your female a shot of penicillin after the delivery, just to be on the ‘safe side’. This shot of antibiotic will go straight to moms milk supply and kill your puppies.

Just as soon as your female wakes up, and can stand up, after the delivery, take her and the puppies home. NEVER leave her at the vet clinic overnight for recovery. This is too emotional on the female and too risky for the pups. Sick dogs are at the vet clinic over night. This is where you may pick up diseases. Get your babes home pronto!

Breeding Your Bulldog

Doing Your Homework

So your bitch is in season and you have decided to breed her, the first question is "Have you done your homework?" Have you taken a hard look at your bitch and determined her strengths, weaknesses and whether or not she should be bred? Have you examined her pedigree to see how tightly linebred she is or if she is an outcross? If your bitch has been bred before, did she "miss" or were you fortunate and have a litter? If you had a litter, what would you want to improve on? These will help you in your search for the right stud dog for your bitch.

When selecting the stud dog, did you consider his strengths and weaknesses? Have you seen offspring he has produced? How does his pedigree tie into your bitch's pedigree - will this be an outcross or linebreeding? If the owner of the stud dog will be open with you, what is his breeding history - does he have a lot of "misses"?

Have you asked yourself if you have the time, energy and money to breed your bitch and raise a litter?

Selecting the Stud Dog

Hopefully you will have done your homework prior to your bitch coming into season so that you have made a well thought out decision concerning this breeding. You should contact the owner of the stud dog you have selected prior to your bitch coming into season and let them know approximately when you expect her to be "in." This way, if there is potentially a conflict or the stud dog will be unavailable at that time (people do take vacations), you will have time to fall back on your second choice (it always pays to have a back-up breeding in mind.) Your other option is to wait until the next time your bitch is in season. You should also discuss, if the bitch is going to the stud dog, when they want her to arrive in relation to her heat cycle.

You should discuss with the stud dog owner the stud fee. You will need to know the fee and how it is to be paid. Some stud dog owners want the entire fee prior to the breeding, others want half at the time of breeding and the balance when litter registration papers are signed, and still others collect their fee when the litter is whelped. Some stud dog owners will do the breeding in exchange for a puppy, though this is becoming uncommon.

If you are doing a "chilled" or "frozen" semen breeding, there will be additional fees. As owner of the bitch you will be expected to pay for shipping via Fedex or UPS overnight service or counter-to-counter via an airline. To comply with AKC Regulations, the stud dog owner's vet should do the collection and a hopefully a semen evaluation. You will be expected to pay for those fees as well. Your vet will be doing the insemination, also to comply with AKC Regulations, and you will have insemination and semen evaluation fees to pay also. You may want to inquire as to whether the stud dog owner has shipping kits available for your use or if you need to purchase one from ICG, ICBS, Camelot Farms or one of the other sources now available. http://www.camelotfarms.com/

When Do You Breed?

You have selected your stud dog, made arrangements with its owners, and your bitch is finally in season. How do you determine when to breed her? If your bitch is going to stay at the stud dog owners, you have more options available than if you are shipping semen. Many breeders "count the days" and always breed at 10 and 12 days or 11 and 13 days or some other combination that has worked well for them in the past. Some stud dogs will not be interested in a bitch until she is ready for breeding, while others don't seem to care whether she's in season or not. Other breeders watch for changes in the color of the bitch's discharge and breed when it turns "straw" colored. Still others use vaginal cytology and look for cornification of cells to determine breeding times. [Note: Estrogen level changes cause the cornification but estrogen is not a factor in determining ovulation.] If you are shipping semen you will want to have some type of "target testing" done to more closely predict when ovulation occurs. Many stud dog owners are now requiring target testing even when they will be doing "live" breedings. Ask the stud dog owner how the timing for breeding is determined and give whatever input you feel is important, remember everyone involved wants to produce a healthy litter of puppies.

We have become confirmed believers in the use of the "target" or progesterone testing now available. The same bitch can be fertile at different times each season. We have one bitch who was target tested both times she was bred and both breedings results in litters. The first time she was bred, the testing indicated she needed to be bred on day 6 and 8 of her cycle. The next time she was bred, the testing indicated she should be bred on day 16 and 18. She taught us that you can't depend on prior breeding history to determine when to breed in the future.

Waiting...

Now your bitch has been bred and the waiting begins. We are fortunate to be located near one of the top Veterinary Teaching hospitals in the country. We make use of the ultrasound equipment and radiology staff at the teaching clinic, and our "girls" don't mind helping to train future veterinarians. They have been able to accurately diagnose pregnancy as early as 23 days. We usually ultrasound around 30 to 35 days. Many veterinarians are adding ultrasound equipment and some areas also have "traveling" ultrasound practitioners.

A number of veterinarians and some experienced breeders are good at performing palpations to diagnose pregnancy. This can be done between 26 and 35 days post breeding. Other signs which indicate pregnancy, but may also appear with a false pregnancy, are: enlargement of the abdomen about five weeks post breeding, enlargement of the vulva, a clear vaginal discharge from about five weeks on, and mammary development continuing past the first four weeks post breeding.

Caesarian?

As the majority of bulldog itches have caesarian sections to deliver their puppies, you need to get your vet involved once you think your bitch might be pregnant. You will want to check your vet's schedule to make sure he or she will be available around the time your litter is due. If he or she won't be available, you need to discuss back-up arrangements and referrals to another veterinarian who will be available. You need to be sure your vet is comfortable doing a section on a bulldog, not all vets are. You should ask, if you want, if you will be allowed to observe the section. Do you need to provide "puppy catchers" or does the vet have staff to handle the neonates? Also, in case your bitch decides to have her puppies in the middle of the night, will your vet be available or will you be referred to a local emergency clinic?

Costs?

When estimating the costs involved in getting a litter on the ground, you should plan on the following expenses (bear in mind these are averages and will vary from region to region and vet to vet):

Stud Fee = $350-$500+

Health Check & First Target Test = $ 60-$100

Each Additional Target Test = $19

Shipping (Fedex or UPS) = $30 each time

Shipping (Airline Counter-to-Counter) = $50-$70 each time

Collection & Evaluation (Male) = $60-$90 each time

Chilled Semen Kits for Shipping = $150 for 2

Insemination & Semen Evaluation (Bitch) = $50-$60 each time

Ultrasound Examination = $40-50

Caesarian Section $350-$500+

At a minimum you may have to invest $700 to produce a litter, but the costs could every easily exceed $1,400, and this doesn't take into consideration raising the litter. As a breeder you must always remember that luck and risks are involved. The timing may be off on your bitch or she may fail to ovulate, the stud dog could produce sperm which don't live long enough to fertilize an egg, semen extender could be bad and you might receive a shipment of dead sperm, or the airline could "misplace" your important package for days. You can do everything right and your bitch becomes pregnant only to hare her absorb or abort the litter. The placentas could partially detach early and your litter be born dead (an experience we hope to never have happen again). Or the most horrifying thing, something could wrong and your bitch could die. Please make sure you do your homework before you breed your bitch, be prepared for the financial outlays, and be ready to deal with the risks involved. If you should decide not to breed your bitch, do her a favor and please get her spayed.

MY BITCH IS GOING TO HAVE PUPPIES, NOW WHAT DO I DO?!!!

We occasionally get phone calls from strangers who have bred their bitch, found out she is going to have puppies, don't know what to do next, received no information from the owner of the stud dog [or they own their own stud dog and this is everyone's first litter], and got my number from their local kennel club or similar source. What follows is a compilation of information which we have pulled together over the years.

It is important to know approximately when your bitch is due. Bulldog bitches seem to be ready to whelp their puppies around 61 days from their first or last breeding. If your bitch was bred over a period of three or more times, it is much more difficult to calculate an exact due date. Many vets are now running blood tests to pinpoint the drop in progesterone, which normally drops approximately one day before whelping. Approximately one week before the first due date we begin taking the bitch's temperature twice a day at approximately the same time each day. During the last week of pregnancy the bitch's temperature will be lower than usual (100.2 to 100.8 at rest) but fluctuations will occur. By charting the temperature over this time period you will become aware of the normal rise and fall in temperature, which occurs normally. Approximately 24 hours before labor starts, the bitch's temperature will drop to somewhere between 98.0 and 99.4. Other signs of early labor include restlessness, nesting, panting, frequent urination with straining, loss of appetite, and contractions. If your bitch's temperature has not dropped but you are seeing two or more of the signs of early labor and you are within her due date range, you probably have puppies getting ready to arrive. We have encountered a number of bitches who never drop their temperature so the approximate due date and other symptoms become very important.

About one to two weeks before the first due date you should get in touch with your veterinarian to make sure he or she will be available, emergency numbers in case of midnight puppies, and just to recheck your veterinarian's procedures concerning c-sections. Many veterinarians, if they have not performed an ultrasound examination to diagnose pregnancy, may want to do a x-ray to confirm the pregnancy. If you need to provide "puppy catchers", now is the time to get those arrangements in place. You should also move your bitch into your "puppy room" so that she has time to become comfortable in her new surroundings.

You should have your puppy room fully equipped and ready to go a week before the first due date. If you are going to place your bitch and her puppies in a whelping box, you should have it set up and ready. Many people have used a round, plastic "kiddy" pool. Others use traditional 4' x 4' whelping boxes with 6" sides and a 1" x 2" rail attached about 3" from the bottom. You will want an infra-red lamp (heat lamp) or a Temperature Maintenance Pad or a Whelping Next as Foster and Smith offer in their catalog. The bottom should be lined with bathroom carpet or "fuzzies". You can also use a home-made incubator which can be as simple as a basket, box, picnic cooler or a 30 to 40 gallon "leaker" aquarium. With a home-made incubator you should place a heating pad in one end wrapped in layers of receiving blankets. You ill also need to line the bottom with receiving blankets or fuzzies. If you are so inclined, you can contact your local hospital and check into the possibility of buying a used infant incubator.

No matter what "housing" arrangement you make for your puppies, temperature is very important. You should have some type of indoor thermometer to make sure your puppies' environment is neither too hot nor too cold. The ambient temperature should be 88 to 92 for the first week, gradually dropping to 80 during the second and third weeks. By the end of the fourth week the temperature should be around 75. Chilled puppies cannot digest milk while overheated puppies will suffer from dehydration. Once the puppies are several days old, we place rolled up old socks under the bedding for the puppies. This seems to help them get up on their feet faster and theoretically helps prevent "flat" or sunken chests.

You need to be prepared to bring both your bitch and your puppies home from the veterinarians once they have been declared ready to do. A picnic cooler or laundry basket work well for the purpose. You will want to take along a hot water bottle, small plastic pop bottles with lids, or the mylar linings from the wine-in-a-box packages. You will need to preheat the "incubator" by filling the containers with hot water and covering the "warmers" with towels or fuzzies. Depending on the weather you will probably need another towel to cover the container when taking the puppies to your car. You should also bring along an old sheet or beach towel to cover the seat in your care in case your bitch has a bloody discharge while traveling home.

Once you have safely gotten your bitch and puppies home, life gets very busy. You should get the puppies settled into their housing as soon as possible. Your bitch should be given the opportunity to urinate as this will help clear the anesthesia out of her system. She will tend to be drowsy for the first 12 to 24 hours. Once she is settled in you should weigh your puppies, keeping track of their weight in ounces. We often offer each puppy a finger to suckle which has been dipped in clear Karo syrup as Bully babies tend to be hypoglycemic at birth. If mom is inclined and the puppies are restless, you may place them on to nurse. Do not be alarmed if your bitch's milk takes a couple of days to come in an abundance, the first feedings of colostrum are the most important for the puppies as it helps give them immunity from the various diseases which your bitch has been immunized against. You should plan on putting the puppies on to nurse every 3 hours around the clock for the first 5 to 6 days and every 4 hours thereafter. If you have 5 or fewer puppies, you can usually put them all on to nurse at the same time. If you have 6 or more puppies, you should plan on feeding them in shifts, changing the side the puppies are nursing on for each team. After the puppies have nursed you should check them for signs of diarrhea and offer them to your bitch to "clean-up". Some bitches will do this as soon as they come home, others may take a few days, and some of us are blessed with bitches who will not "clean-up" a puppy. You need to be ready to help out by wiping bottoms with cotton balls or wipes which have been either soaked in warm water or dabbed in Vaseline. It ism important to make sure that the puppies are eliminating. We also weight the puppies at least once a day, usually at the same time, to make sure that they are all growing steadily. If your puppies are not gaining, or some are and others aren't, you may need to supplement their feedings with Esbilac.

Do no be alarmed if your bitch is "off" her food for a day or two following her section. You should have some cottage cheese, yogurt, ground beef, "CD" from your vet, etc. on hand to entice your bitch to eat. She will often times not be interested in her regular food for the first couple of days after her section. My personal guess is that she has a sore throat from having been "tubed" and have found that cool, throat soothing items which do not cause her diarrhea will get her back onto her regular food quickly.

Determining when it is time to wean your puppies varies from breeder to breeder and in some instances from litter to litter. We usually start weaning our puppies at 3 weeks of age and have them fully weaned by the time they are 5 weeks old. Your bitch will sometimes let you know that it's time to wean her puppies when she really doesn't want to let them nurse anymore. Some people wean the puppies initially onto a mixture of Esbilac (or similar formula), baby rice cereal and strained beef, gradually diluting the Esbilac with water and adding soaked, ground up puppy food. Other people wean their puppies onto Esbilac and "Puppy Weaning Formula" with the same gradual change to puppy food. Still other people will wean their puppies onto Esbilac and the puppy food (which they feed) after it has been soaked and ground up. The choice is up to you as many litters have been successfully raised using each of the weaning methods.

The following is a listing of items which you should have on hand to help you with your puppies:

Large Cotton Balls or Make-Up Wipes

Vaseline
Rectal Thermometer (digital are great)
Receiving Blankets or "Fuzzies"
2 cans Liquid Esbilac
2 12 cc Syringes
Hot Water Bottle
Antibacterial Soap
Nasal Aspirator
Infra-Red Heat Lamp or Heating Pad
Clear Karo Syrup
Old Towels & Socks
Feeding Tube
Bene-Bac or Or-Lac
Kleenex
Wet Wipes
Baby Bottle
Baby Nail Scissors
Notebook to chart weight
"preemie" nipple
Indoor Thermometer
Alarm Clock (to remind you when to feed puppies)
Food Scale (weighs in ounces)
Baby Scale (for when they get larger)

Two books which are very helpful are "The Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook" by Carlson & Giffin and "Canine Reproduction: A Breeder's Guide" by Phyllis A. Holst, MS, D.V.M. We have both books and refer to them often.

Raising a litter of puppies is hard work but when all goes well it is very gratifying to watching the puppies grow and change every day. It is important to remember to be prepared well ahead of time for your puppies arrival, to be ready for the unexpected, and to be ready to intervene when necessary to help either your bitch or your puppies.

Good Luck with your puppies!

by Carolyn	by Sheila	by Donna
by Beth	by Carla	by Cyndie
by Kandie		Links

*Links*
Should I breed my dog?	So You Want To Use Your Dog At Stud
Breeding Your Dog FAQ	The Reality of Breeding Dogs